Our 2026 rankings are out. See the rankings

Houses · Tokyo, Japan, and Naples, Italy

Cesare Attolini sets up Japanese subsidiary and plans a Tokyo store

The Naples house opened a salon at Takashimaya Nihonbashi in spring 2024 and aims to open its own Ginza store within two years, with London due first.

By TailorGuide ·

The chest of a glen check jacket with a curved breast pocket and a soft lapel.

Cesare Attolini, the Neapolitan tailoring house, has set up a Japanese subsidiary, Cesare Attolini Japan, and plans to open a company-run store in Tokyo's Ginza district within two years, WWDJapan reported on 24 April 2024. A salon opened in spring 2024 inside the Bols 1987 shop at the Takashimaya department store in Nihonbashi.

The subsidiary's president is Hitoshi Futamura, chief executive of Bols 1987, who has sold the brand in Japan since 1994. Massimiliano Attolini, the company's president, told the publication that the house had spent the past 20 years concentrating on Europe and the United States and that Tokyo was next. Franchising has been ruled out: all stores will be run by the company.

A small house with a long reach

At the time of the report the house had five stores, including New York, Miami and Milan, with a London store due to open in summer 2024. Its target is 20 stores by 2030. It also sells through roughly 100 wholesale accounts worldwide.

Production stays small by design. According to WWDJapan, about 120 artisans work in the Naples workshop, a suit takes 25 to 30 hours, about 30 jackets are made a day, and no more than 20 pieces are cut from any one fabric. Annual output is capped at about 7,000 pieces, and the company said it had no plans to raise it.

Hands sewing a sleeve into a gray jacket, with small gathers at the shoulder.
In the Neapolitan manner the sleeve is often set by hand, with its extra fullness eased into small gathers at the shoulder.

Ready-to-wear accounts for about 60 percent of the business and made-to-order and bespoke for about 40 percent. The publication gave ready-to-wear jacket prices of $6,500 to $7,500 and suit prices of $7,500 to $9,500, with bespoke costing about 30 percent more. The company does not disclose revenue; WWDJapan estimated it at about $112 million.

Three generations of the Neapolitan jacket

The house traces its style to Vincenzo Attolini, a Naples tailor who in the 1930s took the English jacket as his starting point and removed much of its padding, helping to shape what became known as the Neapolitan style. His son Cesare learned the trade in his father's shop and built the business; he died in 2022 at the age of 91. Cesare's sons, Massimiliano (president) and Giuseppe (vice president), now run the company, which is based in Casalnuovo, outside Naples.

A padded English-style jacket beside a softer Neapolitan-style jacket on dress forms.
Vincenzo Attolini started from the English jacket and removed much of its padding, giving the softer shoulder seen on the right.

“Sometimes we say our jackets are Neapolitan in the top half, English in the bottom”

Massimiliano Attolini, speaking to Permanent Style

What it means for buyers

For customers outside Italy, the expansion means more places to try on and be measured for an Attolini jacket in a store run by the house itself rather than through a retailer. Massimiliano Attolini still takes customer measurements himself, as his father did, according to WWDJapan. With output capped, more stores are unlikely to mean more jackets in circulation, so made-to-order lead times are worth checking before ordering.

A visit reported by Permanent Style in August 2026 confirmed that the London store had opened and that the company had cut back its wholesale accounts while expanding its own retail, with stores in Milan, New York, Miami, Moscow, Monte Carlo and London.

More news

View all news