Rubinacci

Rubinacci is the one Neapolitan firm with a permanent Milan shop that merits a place among the city's bespoke tailors. Clients are received in a salon at the back of the Via Gesù shop, opened in 2015 a few doors from Via Montenapoleone, where the family also keeps its archive of vintage fabric. The making is done in Naples: Luca Rubinacci told Wall Street Italia in 2025 that production is entirely Neapolitan, and Permanent Style reported in 2026 that the firm's 35 tailors now work at a new facility outside the city.

The house jacket is soft but less minimal than some from Naples. Luca Rubinacci describes it as a little longer, with a lower buttoning point, which makes it slightly more English than its neighbors' work. Permanent Style's 2019 breakdown of a Rubinacci jacket recorded light padding at the shoulder, a lapel with a pronounced belly and a fairly closed front. The firm now offers three shoulders: the unstructured spalla camicia, a more padded Milanese shoulder and a firmer English one.

Compared with Milan's own sartorie, such as A. Caraceni, Rubinacci offers a softer, more relaxed jacket and a much larger retail operation, with ready-to-wear tailoring, shirts, ties and accessories under one roof. The trade-off is that the suit is made in Naples rather than on the premises, so a client in Milan has less contact with the tailors who sew it.

Prices are not published. Permanent Style gave $6,500, including VAT, for a two-piece suit at the London shop in 2019; ask the Milan shop for a current figure. Mariano Rubinacci, who built the firm's international business, died in 2026, and his four children continue it, with Luca as creative director. Ask at the first appointment who will cut and fit your suit.