J. Mueser has the most distinct style of the tailors in this group. Its jackets have a soft shoulder, a wide lapel with plenty of belly, a low notch, patch pockets and little padding, and trousers can be cut full or sharply tapered. The shop at 19 Christopher Street sells the look ready-made as well as to order and is open every day, which makes it an easy place to start.
The levels of make matter. The Waverly is cut and sewn by hand in Naples from a hand-drafted paper pattern, with a soft canvas and two or three fittings; the firm says about 70 percent of orders go straight to a finished garment at the second fitting. The Mayfair is the true bespoke line: bench-made in New York, with a heavier canvas in the English manner, a high armhole and three or four fittings over eight to 12 weeks. Permanent Style, which reviewed a Mayfair suit in 2025, praised its sculpted shape and handwork, put the starting price at $4,950, and noted that, like many in New York, Jake Mueser uses a freelance tailor to cut and make it.
Below the top line, quality is less even. Permanent Style's 2022 review of a Waverly jacket needed several rounds of fitting and ranked the make below the best made-to-measure it had tested. Since 2025 Jake Mueser has also designed a ready-to-wear line for The Black Tux, so bespoke clients should ask who will cut and fit their suit.
Choose J. Mueser for relaxed, Italian-leaning tailoring with personality, and the Mayfair for a New York-made bespoke suit at a price below the Savile Row branches in Midtown. For a more traditional American drape, Alan Flusser is the closer fit.
TailorGuide score
Each test is scored out of 10 and weighted. Scores set the order within New York; they are not compared across cities.
- CutCut and construction35%
- 8/10
- FitFit and fittings30%
- 9/10
- ReputationReputation over time20%
- 8/10
- ServiceService15%
- 8/10
- Founded
- 2008
- House style
- Soft Neapolitan cut, downtown styling
- Best for
- Relaxed, Italian-leaning tailoring, with a New York-made bespoke line
- What they make
- Bespoke suits, jackets and overcoats, trousers and waistcoats, made-to-order, ready-to-wear, shirts and knitwear
- Mayfair bespoke two-piece suit
- From $4,950 · 2025 figure; the firm does not publish prices
- Waverly custom tailoring
- From $2,450 · 2022 figure; a Waverly jacket reviewed that year cost $1,950
- Made-to-order tailoring
- From $1,650 · 2022 figure
Prices are approximate and change with the fabric and customizations you choose. Confirm the price and the number of fittings before you order.
History
- 2008Jake Mueser founds the brand, at first with a business partner as Doyle & Mueser
- 2009Co-founds Against Nature, a Lower East Side shop and workshop, with jeweler Ryan Matthew and denim maker Simon Jacob
- 2010Opens the shop at 19 Christopher Street in the West Village
- 2015His business partner leaves to run a womenswear line
- 2025Permanent Style reviews the New York-made Mayfair bespoke suit; Mueser also becomes design director of a ready-to-wear line at The Black Tux
Questions
How much does a J. Mueser bespoke suit cost?
The firm does not publish prices. Permanent Style put a two-piece Mayfair bespoke suit at $4,950 in January 2025. In 2022 it reported the Waverly from $2,450 and made-to-order from $1,650.
What is the difference between the Waverly and the Mayfair?
The Waverly is cut and sewn by hand in Naples from a hand-drafted paper pattern, with a soft canvas and a light shoulder; it takes six to eight weeks and two to three fittings. The Mayfair is bench-made in New York with a heavier, English-style canvas and a high armhole; it takes eight to 12 weeks and three to four fittings.
Is J. Mueser's bespoke made in New York?
The Mayfair line is bench-made in New York City from a hand-drafted pattern. Permanent Style reported in 2025 that Jake Mueser uses a freelance New York tailor to cut and make it. The Waverly and the shirts are made in Italy.
Do I need an appointment at J. Mueser?
Not to visit. The shop at 19 Christopher Street is open Monday to Saturday from noon to 7pm and Sunday from noon to 6pm, and walk-ins are welcome. Book a bespoke consultation by email at info@jmueser.com or by phone on 347-982-4382.
Can I order J. Mueser bespoke outside New York?
The Mayfair is usually available only in New York, according to Permanent Style. The firm holds trunk shows in other US cities, including Atlanta and Los Angeles, booked through Team@JMueser.com.
By TailorGuide · Updated April 2026
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