The short answer
A French cuff, or double cuff, is a long shirt cuff folded back on itself and fastened with cufflinks. Wear French cuffs with a suit or dinner jacket for business, weddings and formal evenings, and always with black tie. To fasten one, fold the cuff back, pinch its two ends together so they point away from your wrist, and push the link through all four buttonholes.
- A French cuff is about twice the length of a normal cuff, folded back and closed with cufflinks.
- Wear French cuffs with a suit or dinner jacket, not with knitwear or casual jackets.
- Fasten them kissing style: both ends of the cuff pressed together and pointing outward.
- Black tie takes French cuffs with links that match the shirt studs; white tie takes stiff single cuffs.
- Keep work cufflinks small and simple, and match their metal to your watch.
In this guide
- What is a French cuff?
- What are the different types of shirt cuffs?
- When should you wear French cuffs?
- Can you wear French cuffs without a jacket or tie?
- How do you put on cufflinks?
- Kissing or barrel style: which way should a French cuff close?
- What are the main types of cufflinks?
- How to match cufflinks to your outfit
- Cufflinks and studs for black tie and white tie
- How should a French cuff fit?
- Common French cuff mistakes
- Questions people ask
The French cuff is the most formal everyday cuff on a man's shirt. It is cut about twice the usual length, folded back on itself and held closed with cufflinks, so it sits a little fuller on the wrist and frames the hand below a jacket sleeve. It sends a clear signal that you dressed with care. That makes it exactly right for some occasions and slightly out of place at others, and it brings a small piece of jewelry into the outfit that has its own rules.
French cuffs at a glance
- What it is
- A double-length cuff folded back and closed with cufflinks; called a double cuff in Britain
- Wear with
- A suit or dinner jacket, usually with a tie
- Skip with
- Knitwear, tweed sport coats, chinos, jeans and shorts
- Black tie
- French cuffs, with cufflinks that match the shirt studs
- White tie
- Stiff single cuffs, closed with cufflinks
- How to fasten
- Kissing style: both ends pressed together and pointing outward
- Under a jacket
- Show about ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 13 mm) of cuff
What is a French cuff?
A French cuff is a shirt cuff about twice as long as a standard cuff, folded back so that a doubled layer wraps the wrist. It has buttonholes on both sides and no buttons, and it closes with a cufflink passed through all four holes. The fold hides the seam at the end of the cuff, which is part of why it reads as formal. Americans say French cuff and the British say double cuff; both mean the same thing.
Cufflink
A cufflink is a fastener for a shirt cuff that has buttonholes on both sides and no buttons. It has a decorative face joined by a post or a short chain to a back that holds it in place.
What are the different types of shirt cuffs?
Shirt cuffs fall into two families: those that close with buttons and those that take cufflinks. A few hybrids sit in between. The table covers the cuffs you will be offered by a shirtmaker or see on ready-made shirts.
| Cuff | How it closes | Formality | Wear it with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Barrel, one button | One button | Casual to business | Almost everything |
| Barrel, two buttons | Two buttons, side by side or one above the other | Casual to business | Everyday shirts; side-by-side buttons let you adjust the fit |
| Convertible | A button, or a cufflink through holes on both sides | Business | Ready-made shirts meant to do both jobs |
| French (double) | Folded back, closed with cufflinks | Business to black tie | Suits, weddings, dinner jackets |
| Single link cuff | Single length, closed with cufflinks | Formal | White tie, where the cuff is stiffly starched |
| Cocktail (turnback) | Folded back, closed with buttons | Dressy and a little showy | Suits and evening wear, as a personal choice |
Cuffs also differ at the corners. Rounded, angled (mitered) and square corners are all used on French cuffs, and the choice is a matter of taste rather than formality. The cocktail cuff, also called a turnback cuff, is often associated with the early James Bond films; it gives the look of a folded cuff without the need for links.
When should you wear French cuffs?
Wear French cuffs when you wear a suit and want to look a step more formal: important meetings, weddings, ceremonies, formal dinners and evening receptions. They are the correct cuff with black tie. They are out of place with casual clothes: tweed and knitted jackets, sweaters, chinos, jeans and outfits built around comfort rather than tailoring.
| Barrel cuff | French cuff | Single link cuff | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Everyday office | |||
| Important meeting or interview | |||
| Wedding, guest or groom | |||
| Funeral | |||
| Black tie | |||
| White tie | |||
| Sport coat and chinos | |||
| No jacket |
Can you wear French cuffs without a jacket or tie?
Without a tie, yes, as long as you still wear a suit or a smart jacket. An open-necked shirt with French cuffs under a dark suit is a common evening look. Without a jacket it is harder to carry off. A French cuff is designed to show just below a jacket sleeve, and with the whole sleeve on display the cufflinks can look like an afterthought. Taking your jacket off at your desk is fine; if you plan never to wear one, choose barrel cuffs.
How do you put on cufflinks?
French cuffs are fastened kissing style: the two ends of the cuff are pinched together so they stand out from the wrist side by side, like a pair of lips. The steps take under a minute once you have done them a few times.
How to fasten a French cuff
- 1
Put the shirt on
Button the front and the collar and leave both cuffs open and unfolded.
- 2
Fold the cuff back
Fold the cuff back along its center line so the buttonholes line up, two on each end. The fold should sit evenly all the way around the wrist.
- 3
Pinch the ends together
Bring the two ends of the cuff together so they press against each other and point away from your wrist. All four buttonholes should now line up in a row.
Tip: If the holes do not line up, the fold is uneven. Refold it before forcing the link through.
- 4
Insert the link
Turn the swivel bar in line with the post, then push the cufflink through all four holes so the decorative face sits on the side of the cuff facing away from your body.
- 5
Lock it
Turn the swivel bar flat, or let the second face of a chain link settle against the cuff. Tug gently to check that it holds.
- 6
Repeat on the other wrist
The second cuff is harder because you are working with your weaker hand. Rest your forearm on a table to steady it until the movement becomes routine.
Kissing or barrel style: which way should a French cuff close?
Kissing style is the usual and preferred way, and it is how most French cuffs are designed to close. The alternative, sometimes called barrel style, overlaps one end of the cuff over the other like a buttoned cuff, with one edge pointing out and the other tucked in. It lies flatter but looks less finished, and the link has to pass through the holes at an angle. If you are unsure, fasten your cuff kissing style; it is never wrong.
What are the main types of cufflinks?
| Type | How it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Double-panel with chain | Two decorative faces joined by a short chain; one face passes through the holes | The most traditional look; finished on both sides of the cuff |
| Double-panel, rigid | Two faces on a fixed post; the smaller face passes through like a button | A neat, secure fit; slightly fiddly in stiff cuffs |
| Toggle back (bullet or whale back) | One decorative face; a swivel bar turns in line to insert and flat to lock | The easiest to fit and the most common today |
| Fixed back | A solid back with no moving parts | Very secure, but harder to push through stiff cuffs |
| Silk knots | Two knotted balls of silk or fabric cord joined together | Daytime and relaxed wear; colorful and inexpensive |
Cufflinks appeared in the 1600s but became common only at the end of the 18th century, and by the middle of the 19th century, once factories could make them cheaply, they were widely worn. The Paris shirtmaker Charvet is credited with introducing silk knot cufflinks in 1904, and they remain the most relaxed choice. For a first pair, a simple toggle back or double-panel link in silver or gold with a plain oval or rectangular face goes with everything.
How to match cufflinks to your outfit
- Work: small, plain links in silver, gold or a single dark stone. Save novelty designs for social occasions.
- Metal: match the metal of your cufflinks to your watch, and ideally to your belt buckle and tie bar.
- Color: pick up a color from your tie or shirt stripe, or stay neutral. Navy enamel on a light blue shirt is quieter than red.
- Weddings: a good time for something personal, such as an heirloom pair or engraved links, kept modest in size.
- Daytime and relaxed wear: silk knots in navy, burgundy or a mix of colors.
- Size: keep the face modest. Large links look heavy and catch on jacket sleeves.
Cufflinks and studs for black tie and white tie
Black tie calls for a white evening shirt with French cuffs, and the cufflinks should match the shirt studs, ideally as a set. Black onyx in a silver or gold setting is the classic choice; mother-of-pearl and plain metal also work. White tie uses a stiff-fronted shirt with single cuffs, not French cuffs, closed with links, and mother-of-pearl or pearl is traditional there. Our guides to the tuxedo shirt, black tie and white tie cover the rest of each outfit.
Black tie
Dinner jacket
- White shirt with French (double) cuffs
- Cufflinks match the shirt studs
- Black onyx is the classic choice
- Mother-of-pearl and plain metal also work
- Keep the design simple
White tie
Tailcoat
- Stiff-fronted white shirt with single cuffs
- Cufflinks and studs as a matching set
- Mother-of-pearl or pearl is traditional
- Detachable wing collar
- White and pale materials suit the white waistcoat
How should a French cuff fit?
A French cuff is bulkier than a barrel cuff and should sit slightly looser, so it can turn on the wrist without the link digging in. It should still be snug enough not to slide down over your hand. With your arms relaxed, the cuff should reach the base of your thumb, and under a jacket about ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 13 mm) of cuff should show below the sleeve, with the link just visible when you move. If you wear a watch, a made-to-measure or bespoke shirtmaker can cut that cuff slightly larger so it slides over the watch.
Your jacket sleeves matter as much as the shirt. If they are too long, the cuffs and links disappear; if they are too short, too much shirt shows. Our guides to how a dress shirt should fit and suit sleeve length explain the measurements.
Common French cuff mistakes
- Wearing French cuffs with a tweed sport coat, a sweater or no jacket at a casual event.
- Barrel cuffs with black tie, or French cuffs with white tie.
- Cufflinks that clash with the watch metal or do not match the shirt studs at black tie.
- Novelty links at a conservative business meeting.
- Jacket sleeves so long that the cuffs and links never show.
- Cuffs so tight that the links pull and the fold creases.
Ordering shirts with French cuffs
- Ask for French cuffs on your dressiest shirts, usually white and light blue.
- Choose the corner shape: rounded, angled or square.
- Tell the shirtmaker which wrist you wear a watch on.
- Check that the cuff closes kissing style with all four holes aligned.
- Bring the jacket you will wear to check that the cuff shows below the sleeve.
- Buy one plain pair of links in your watch metal before anything showy.
French cuffs reward a little practice. Start with one white shirt and one plain pair of links, wear them to your next wedding or formal dinner, and the habit follows. For the other small details that finish a suit, see our guide to suit accessories.
Questions people ask
Are French cuffs too formal for the office?
French cuffs are not too formal for an office where suits are worn, though in many offices they now stand out. In conservative fields such as law and finance they are common with a suit and tie. In a business casual office, barrel cuffs fit in better, and French cuffs suit days with an important meeting or event.
What is the difference between a French cuff and a barrel cuff?
A barrel cuff is a single layer that closes with one or more buttons. A French cuff is about twice as long, folds back on itself and closes with cufflinks through four buttonholes. The French cuff is more formal and is correct with black tie, while the barrel cuff suits everyday wear.
Can you wear cufflinks with a regular shirt?
Only if the shirt has convertible cuffs, which have a buttonhole on both sides as well as a button. A standard barrel cuff has a button on one side, so there is nowhere to pass a link. Shirts made for cufflinks have French, single link or convertible cuffs.
Do cufflinks have to match your watch?
Cufflinks do not have to match your watch, but they look best when the metals agree: silver or white gold links with a steel or white-gold watch, and gold links with a gold watch. Stone and enamel links are easier to combine. At black tie, matching the cufflinks to the shirt studs matters more.
Which way should cufflinks face?
The decorative face of a cufflink goes on the side of the cuff facing away from your body, so it shows when your arms hang naturally. The back, whether a toggle, a fixed back or a second face, sits on the side nearest your body. Double-panel links look finished from both sides.
What cufflinks do you wear with a tuxedo?
With a tuxedo, wear cufflinks that match your shirt studs, ideally bought as a set. Black onyx in a silver or gold setting is the classic black tie choice, with mother-of-pearl and plain metal as alternatives. The tuxedo shirt itself should have French cuffs.
TailorGuide is independent. Our guides are written and checked by our team and carry no paid endorsements. How we work.