The Guide
Everything you need to know about suits: how they should fit, what they are made of, how to wear them and how to work with a tailor. Written and checked by TailorGuide.
100 guides · Updated October 2026
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How-toHow to Tie a Tie: 6 Knots, Step by StepSix knots cover every collar, tie and occasion you are likely to meet. Each one below is written for a mirror, with the wide end starting on your right, and each sequence has been checked move by move.
BasicsHow a Suit Should Fit: Jacket, Trousers and Shirt, Point by PointEvery fit point a tailor checks, in the order they check it, with the exact rule for each and a note on whether it can be fixed later.
BasicsBespoke vs Made-to-Measure vs Ready-to-Wear: What's the Difference?Three ways to buy a suit, three very different processes. The difference comes down to whose pattern the suit is cut from, how often you are fitted and how much is done by hand.
FabricsSuit Fabrics Explained: Wool, Linen, Cotton, Mohair, Silk and BlendsFabric decides how a suit breathes, drapes, creases and ages more than any other choice you make. Here is every fiber a tailor will show you, compared honestly, with links to our detailed guide on each.
StyleMen's Dress Codes Explained: From White Tie to CasualEight dress codes cover almost every invitation and workplace you will meet. Here is what each one requires, how they relate, and what to do when the wording is vague.
ConstructionFused vs Half Canvas vs Full Canvas: What's the Difference?The layer you cannot see, between the outer fabric and the lining, decides how a jacket drapes, how its lapels roll and how long it lasts. Here is what each construction is, what it costs and which is worth paying for.
Basics
16 guides
Bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear, fit, sizes, prices and how to work with a tailor.
- Bespoke vs Made-to-Measure vs Ready-to-Wear: What's the Difference?Three ways to buy a suit, three very different processes. The difference comes down to whose pattern the suit is cut from, how often you are fitted and how much is done by hand.14 min read
How Much Does a Bespoke Suit Cost? Prices in London, New York, Milan and Dubai (2026)One table, four cities, three tiers. What a two-piece suit costs in each city in 2026, in local currency, and what moves the price up or down.10 min read- How a Suit Should Fit: Jacket, Trousers and Shirt, Point by PointEvery fit point a tailor checks, in the order they check it, with the exact rule for each and a note on whether it can be fixed later.15 min read
Your First Fitting: What to Bring, Wear and AskA fitting is only as good as the information the tailor has. Wear the right things, bring the right things, and say what you feel.8 min read
What a Tailor Can and Can't Alter on a SuitSome alterations take a tailor twenty minutes; others mean taking the jacket apart and may still not work. Knowing which is which saves you money and bad buys.11 min read
Suit Size Chart: How to Find Your Suit Size (40R, 42L and More)Suit sizes look like code, but the system is simple: a chest measurement, a length and a drop. Here is how to read any label and find your size before you try anything on.10 min read
How to Choose a Good Tailor: A ChecklistMost advice on finding a tailor is about hemming trousers. This checklist is for the bigger decision: who should cut and make your suit.10 min read
How Much Do Suit Alterations Cost? Price Guide by AlterationMost suits need a little work to fit well, and most of that work is affordable. Here is what each alteration typically costs, what pushes the price up and when to walk away.10 min read
Slim Fit vs Tailored Fit vs Classic Fit: Suit Fits ComparedThe labels on suit racks sound like a standard. They are not. Here is what they usually mean, how much they vary, and how to compare fits across brands with a tape measure.8 min read
Bespoke Fittings Explained: Baste, Forward and FinishedA bespoke suit is fitted while it is still being made. Each fitting has a different job, and knowing which is which tells you what to look for and when to speak up.10 min read
Is a Bespoke Suit Worth It? Who Should (and Shouldn't) Go BespokeMost answers to this question come from people who sell bespoke suits. Here is the arithmetic, the cases where bespoke clearly pays, and the cases where it does not.11 min read
Bespoke on a Budget: How to Get a Custom Suit for LessA suit cut for you does not have to cost Savile Row money. It does mean knowing which corners can be cut without hurting the fit, and which cannot.10 min read
How Long Does a Bespoke Suit Take? Timelines and Hours of WorkThe sewing takes a week or two of one tailor's time. The rest is fittings, queues and waiting, and you can plan around all of it.9 min read
Questions to Ask a Tailor Before You Order a SuitThe questions matter less than the answers. Here is what to ask at a consultation, and how to tell a straight answer from a sales pitch.9 min read
Why Are Bespoke Suits So Expensive? Where the Money GoesA bespoke suit's price is mostly time: the cutter's, the coat maker's and the trouser maker's. Here is where the money goes, stage by stage and component by component.10 min read
Parts of a Suit Jacket: Every Detail Named and ExplainedTailors have a name for every curve, seam and pocket on a jacket. Learn the names and you can read a fitting, compare two jackets on a rail and tell a tailor exactly what you want.14 min read
Suits & shirts
21 guides
Lapels, buttons, vents, trousers, collars and the details that make a suit.
Wedding Suits for Men: The Groom's Guide to Suits, Tuxedos, Colors and TimingThe right wedding suit is decided by the clock, the season and the venue, then made right by fit. Here is how a groom chooses, what to order and when to start.14 min read
Black Tie Dress Code for Men: What to Wear and What to AvoidBlack tie is the most exact dress code most men will ever wear. Every item has a correct form, and getting each one right is easier than it looks.11 min read
Shirt Collar Types: Point, Spread, Cutaway, Button-Down and MoreThe collar is the part of a shirt that frames your face and holds your tie. Choosing the right one is a matter of proportion, occasion and the knot you tie.10 min read
Single vs Double-Breasted Suits: Which Should You Choose?The difference is one overlap of fabric, but it changes how the suit fits, how you wear it and where it looks right. Here is how to choose without a salesman's help.9 min read
Suit Lapels Explained: Notch, Peak and ShawlThe lapels are the first thing anyone sees on a jacket and the part that dates fastest. Here is what each type says, how wide to go, and the tailor's terms that decide whether a lapel looks right.11 min read
How Long Should a Suit Jacket Be? Length Rules That Actually WorkThere are three common rules for jacket length, and each one fails some men. Here is how to use them together, and what to do if your jacket is already too short or too long.8 min read
Suit Jacket vs Blazer vs Sport Coat: What's the Difference?Three jackets that look alike on a hanger and behave very differently once you wear them. Here is how to tell them apart and what to wear with each.9 min read
How Suit Trousers Should Fit: Waist, Seat, Thigh and LengthMost trouser guides stop at the waist and the hem. The seat, thigh and rise are where suit trousers usually go wrong, and the wrinkles tell you exactly how.10 min read
How a Dress Shirt Should Fit: Collar, Shoulders, Body and CuffsA dress shirt is fitted with a few simple physical tests: two fingers at the collar, a pinch at the chest, arms overhead for the tuck. Here is each one, and how a shirt should fit under a jacket.10 min read
How a Suit Jacket Should Fit: 7 Checks for Shoulders, Chest, Waist and LengthSeven checks, in the order a tailor makes them. Each comes with a test you can do in a fitting-room mirror and an honest answer on whether it can be fixed.12 min read
Suit Sleeve Length: How Much Shirt Cuff Should ShowThe jacket sleeve and the shirt sleeve are one fit point, not two. Get them right together and a small band of cuff frames your hands every time you stand.8 min read
Trouser Break Explained: No Break, Quarter, Half and Full BreakThe break is the small fold of fabric where your trousers meet your shoes. It sets the line of the whole leg, and it is decided in a minute with a few pins.7 min read
Best Suit Colors for Men: Which to Buy First, Second and ThirdMost men need fewer suit colors than they think. Here is the order a tailor would build a suit wardrobe in, and why each color earns its place.11 min read
How to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit: Buttoning, Proportions and StylingA double-breasted suit asks for a few more decisions than a single-breasted one. Get the buttoning and the fit right and the rest is simple.9 min read
Peak vs Notch Lapel: Which Should You Choose?One small point of fabric at the top of the lapel changes how formal a suit looks. Here is the verdict first, then the reasons.7 min read
Suit Jacket Vents: Single, Double or No Vent?Vents are the slits at the back of a jacket. They decide how it behaves when you sit, walk and put your hands in your pockets, which is when most jackets look their worst.8 min read
The Three-Piece Suit: When and How to Wear OneThe waistcoat makes a suit warmer, more formal and better looking with the jacket open. It also brings a few rules that are worth getting right.9 min read
One, Two or Three-Button Suit: Which Is Best?The number of buttons decides how deep the V of your jacket is, and the V decides how tall and broad you look. Here is how to pick.7 min read
Pleated vs Flat-Front Trousers: Which Should You Choose?Pleats spent two decades as the sign of a baggy suit. Cut properly, with the right rise, they are one of the most comfortable and flattering details in tailoring.8 min read
Trouser Cuffs (Turn-Ups): Should Your Suit Pants Have Them?Cuffs add weight, a little informality and a clean finish to a trouser leg. Here is when they help, when they don't, and exactly how deep to ask for them.8 min read
How to Wear a Waistcoat (Vest): Rules for Suits and SeparatesA waistcoat is the easiest garment to get almost right and the easiest to get visibly wrong. These are the rules a tailor checks, with what right and wrong look like.8 min read
Fabrics
7 guides
Wool, linen and blends, Super numbers, weights and what to wear in the heat.
Super 100s to 150s: What Super Numbers Mean on Suit FabricA Super number measures how fine the wool is, not how good the suit is. Here is the full micron chart, what the numbers change in wear, and which to choose for daily, travel and occasional suits.10 min read- Suit Fabrics Explained: Wool, Linen, Cotton, Mohair, Silk and BlendsFabric decides how a suit breathes, drapes, creases and ages more than any other choice you make. Here is every fiber a tailor will show you, compared honestly, with links to our detailed guide on each.13 min read
Best Suit Fabric for Hot Weather and Humid ClimatesHeat is where fabric choice matters most. Here are the eight best options ranked, with real weights, how each copes with humidity, and what to ask your tailor for.10 min read
Linen Suits: Wrinkles, Weight and How to Buy OneLinen is the coolest suit fabric there is, and the most easily creased. Choose the right weight, blend and construction, and the creases look relaxed rather than rumpled.9 min read
Polyester vs Wool Suits: Is a Poly Blend Ever Worth It?Polyester has real advantages, and wool has more. Here is a fair comparison, how to tell what a suit is made of, and when a blend is a sensible choice.8 min read
Best Year-Round Suit Fabric: What to Choose for a Four-Season SuitOne suit for every season is possible if you choose the right weight and weave. Here is the specific fabric to ask for, adjusted for your climate.9 min read
What Is Worsted Wool? Worsted vs Woolen ExplainedWorsted and woolen are two ways of turning the same wool into yarn, and they make very different suits. Here is how each is made, how they wear, and where flannel and tweed fit.8 min read
Construction
5 guides
Canvas, linings, hand work and alterations: how a suit is made and mended.
- Fused vs Half Canvas vs Full Canvas: What's the Difference?The layer you cannot see, between the outer fabric and the lining, decides how a jacket drapes, how its lapels roll and how long it lasts. Here is what each construction is, what it costs and which is worth paying for.14 min read
How a Bespoke Suit Is Made, Step by StepA bespoke suit is drafted, cut and sewn for one person, then taken apart and rebuilt between fittings. Here is every stage, who does the work and what you should check along the way.13 min read
How to Tell If a Suit Is Canvassed: The Pinch Test, Step by StepYou do not need a label or a salesperson to know what is inside a jacket. Your fingers, a mirror and a little skepticism will tell you in about a minute.8 min read
How to Spot a High-Quality Suit: 10 Signs to CheckPrice and brand are poor guides to how well a suit is made. These ten checks, most of which take seconds, tell you what you are actually paying for.11 min read
Suit Linings Explained: Bemberg, Viscose, Polyester and SilkThe lining is the part of a suit that touches your shirt all day. It decides how easily the jacket slides on, how warm it feels and how soon the inside wears out.9 min read
Style
26 guides
Dress codes, color combinations, weddings and wearing a suit well.
Suit, Shirt and Tie Color Combinations: A Simple GuideYou do not need a color theory course to dress well in a suit. Three contrast rules and one grid cover almost every combination you will wear.11 min read
Business Casual for Men: What It Means, With Outfit ExamplesBusiness casual is the most common office dress code and the least clearly defined. Here is what it means, what is safe everywhere, and what depends on your workplace.10 min read
Smart Casual for Men: What It Means, With Outfit ExamplesSmart casual is the dress code that sounds easiest and causes the most second-guessing. Here is where the line sits, and eight outfits that land on the right side of it.10 min read
What to Wear to a Wedding as a Male Guest, by Dress CodeThe invitation tells you more than the date. Here is what each dress code asks of a man, what to wear when there is none, and the few things a guest should never do.10 min read- Men's Dress Codes Explained: From White Tie to CasualEight dress codes cover almost every invitation and workplace you will meet. Here is what each one requires, how they relate, and what to do when the wording is vague.14 min read
Cocktail Attire for Men: What It Means and What to WearCocktail attire is the most common dress code on evening invitations and the one most often misread. It is a suit code, and a tie is the default.10 min read
Which Shoes to Wear With a Suit: Oxfords, Derbies, Loafers and BootsAfter the fit, shoes do more than anything else to make a suit look right or wrong. Get the style, color and formality right and the rest of the outfit follows.10 min read
How Long Should a Tie Be? Where the Tip Should LandThe rule fits in one line: the tip touches your belt buckle. Getting there depends on the tie's length, your height and neck, and above all on which knot you tie.7 min read
Tuxedo vs Suit: What's the Difference and When to Wear EachA tuxedo and a suit are cut from the same pattern. What separates them is a handful of finishing details and one firm rule about the time of day.8 min read
What to Wear With a Gray Suit: Charcoal, Mid Gray and Light Gray CombinationsGray is three colors, not one: charcoal, mid gray and light gray each want different shirts, ties and shoes.9 min read
What to Wear With a Navy Suit: Shirt, Tie and Shoe CombinationsNavy is the easiest suit to dress, which makes it easy to dress without thought. These pairings show how to wear it well, from the boardroom to the weekend.8 min read
What to Wear to a Funeral: A Guide for MenFuneral clothes should show respect and draw no attention. The rules are simple, and where customs differ, the family's wishes come first.9 min read
What to Wear to a Job Interview: A Men's Suit GuideInterview clothes have one job: to make you look prepared and then disappear, so the conversation is about you. Here is how to get there for every kind of interview.10 min read
Which Tie Knot Should You Wear? Four-in-Hand vs Half Windsor vs WindsorThere is no single best tie knot, only the right knot for a particular collar, tie and occasion. Work through four questions in order and the answer is usually obvious.7 min read
How to Match a Tie to Your Shirt and SuitMatching a tie is less about taste than about three rules: contrast, color and pattern scale. Learn them once and most combinations follow.8 min read
How to Stay Cool in a Suit in Hot, Humid WeatherStaying cool in a suit is mostly decided before you get dressed, by fabric, lining and fit. The rest comes down to the shirt, the undershirt and a few habits for the commute.9 min read
How Many Suits Does a Man Need? Building a Suit WardrobeThe right number depends on how often you wear a suit. The right order barely changes: start with navy, add charcoal, then build out.9 min read
Beach Wedding Attire for Men: What to Wear as a Guest or GroomHeat, sand and sea air change the rules of wedding dress without canceling them. Here is how to stay cool, look dressed and match what the couple has asked for.10 min read
Black Tie Optional: What Men Should WearYes, you can wear a suit. The question is which suit, worn how, and when the dinner jacket is still the better call.8 min read
Can You Wear a Black Suit? When It Works and What to Pair It WithBlack looks like the most formal suit color, which is why so many men buy it first. It is the most limited, and knowing where it works saves you from wearing it where it does not.8 min read
How Wide Should a Tie Be? Matching Tie Width to Your LapelsTie width is a question of proportion, not fashion. Match the widest part of the tie to the widest part of your lapels, adjust for your build, and the tie will look right for years.7 min read
How to Wear a Suit: 12 Rules for Fit, Buttons, Colors and ShoesMost of what makes a man look good in a suit comes down to a dozen small rules. None of them is difficult, and together they matter more than the price of the suit.11 min read
Men's Overcoat Styles: Chesterfield, Polo, Covert, Ulster and MoreNine classic coats, what sets each apart, and which ones belong over a suit. Plus the length, sleeve and fabric weight questions a tailor asks before cutting one.10 min read
White Tie Dress Code: What Men Wear and How to Get It RightWhite tie is the most formal dress code there is, and the least forgiving. Every item is fixed, and one proportion decides whether the whole outfit looks right.10 min read
English vs Italian vs American Tailoring: The Main Styles ComparedThree traditions, five main styles. How English, Neapolitan, Milanese, Roman and American suits differ, point by point, and how to choose between them.9 min read
Neapolitan Tailoring Explained: What Makes a Neapolitan Suit DifferentNaples makes the softest classic suit in the world. Each signature feature explained, where the style came from, and how to commission one.9 min read
How-to
17 guides
Step-by-step: tie knots, measuring, folding, packing and caring for a suit.
- How to Tie a Tie: 6 Knots, Step by StepSix knots cover every collar, tie and occasion you are likely to meet. Each one below is written for a mirror, with the wide end starting on your right, and each sequence has been checked move by move.15 min read
How to Button a Suit Jacket: Which Buttons to FastenThe buttoning rules are short, fixed and built into how a jacket is cut. Here they are for every style, with the reason behind each one.7 min read
How to Care for a Suit: Daily, Weekly, Seasonal and Yearly HabitsA good suit wears out from neglect long before it wears out from use. This is the routine tailors give their clients: a few minutes after each wear, a few more each week, and a little planning each season.14 min read
How to Fold a Pocket Square: 6 Folds, Step by StepSix folds cover every occasion, from the boardroom to a wedding. Each takes under a minute once you know the steps, and the fabric decides which ones will hold.9 min read
How to Pack a Suit Without Wrinkles: The Fold, the Roll and the Garment BagOne fold, done properly, gets a suit across the world with nothing worse than a crease that drops out overnight. Here is the fold tailors use, the packing order, and what to do when you land.9 min read
How to Tie a Four-in-Hand Knot, Step by StepThe four-in-hand is the first knot most men learn and the one many never need to replace. Here is how to tie it well, and how to make it look deliberate rather than rushed.8 min read
How to Measure Your Dress Shirt Size: Neck and Sleeve, Step by StepA dress shirt size is two numbers, neck and sleeve. Ten minutes with a soft tape measure, and ideally a helper, will give you both.9 min read
How to Measure Yourself for a Suit: 12 Measurements, Step by StepTwelve measurements cover everything a ready-to-wear size chart or a made-to-measure order form will ask for. Here is how to take each one accurately, and which ones to leave to a tailor.10 min read
How to Tie a Bow Tie, Step by StepA self-tie bow tie uses the same knot as a shoelace bow, tied at your throat. The steps below give the direction of every fold, which is where most attempts go wrong.7 min read
How to Tie a Half Windsor KnotThe half Windsor is the knot most men should reach for when the collar spreads. It takes seven moves, one of which trips up almost every beginner. The steps below flag that move so you get it right the first time.7 min read
How to Tie a Windsor Knot (Full or Double Windsor)The full Windsor is the broadest and most symmetrical of the classic knots. It looks commanding in the right collar and clumsy in the wrong one, and it uses more tie than any other common knot.8 min read
How Often Should You Dry Clean a Suit?Less often than you think. Here is when a suit genuinely needs cleaning, what repeated cleaning does to fabric and canvas, and how to keep a suit fresh in between.7 min read
How to Clean a Suit at Home (and Can You Machine Wash It?)Most of what a suit needs can be done at home in half an hour with a brush, a steamer and cold water. Washing it is the one thing you must not do, unless the label says otherwise.9 min read
How to Get Wrinkles Out of a Suit: Steaming vs PressingSteam does most of the work and an iron does the rest, provided it never touches the wool. Here is how to do both properly, plus what to do in a hotel room with no steamer.10 min read
Hemming Suit Trousers: How to Pin, Measure and Brief Your TailorA hem is the cheapest alteration on a suit and the one most often done wrong. Getting it right is mostly about what happens before the needle comes out.9 min read
How to Tie a Scarf With a Coat: 5 Ways for MenFive knots cover every coat and every degree of cold. Here are the exact steps for each, and which coats each one suits.8 min read
The Easiest Tie Knot: How to Tie the Simple (Oriental) KnotIf you need a tie knotted in under a minute and have never tied one before, this is the knot. It is smaller than a four-in-hand, quicker to learn, and better than it sounds with the right tie.6 min read
City guides
7 guides
Savile Row, Jermyn Street, New York, Milan and Dubai: where and how to have a suit made.
What Is Savile Row? The Home of Bespoke Tailoring ExplainedA short Mayfair street became the world's reference for bespoke tailoring. How it happened, how a Savile Row house works, and what you get for the price.10 min read
How to Visit Savile Row: A First-Timer's GuideYou can walk the Row any day, but bespoke starts with an appointment. How to book, what to wear and say, and how to see the streets around it.9 min read
Savile Row House Styles: Anderson & Sheppard, Huntsman, Henry Poole and MoreEvery Savile Row house cuts its own silhouette. How ten London houses differ in shoulder, chest, waist and character, and how to choose the one that suits you.9 min read
Bespoke Tailoring in New York: Prices, Styles and How It WorksNew York has resident bespoke tailors, a steady stream of visiting London and Italian houses, and plenty of made-to-measure sold as custom. How to tell them apart, and what each costs.9 min read
Getting a Suit Made in Dubai: Prices, Timing and What to ExpectDubai has neighborhood tailors, custom shops, luxury houses and visiting Savile Row cutters. How each works, what it costs, and how to dress for the heat.9 min read
Jermyn Street Shirtmakers: A Guide to London's Shirt StreetFor more than a century, Jermyn Street has been where London buys its shirts. What sets them apart, how bespoke works there, and what you should pay.9 min read
Milanese Tailoring Explained: The Milan Cut and How to Commission ItMilan cuts the most businesslike suit in Italy: clean, quietly structured and close to the body. What defines it, where it came from, and how to order one.8 min read
Glossary
1 guide
Tailoring terms, explained plainly.
