The short answer
A correct tuxedo shirt is white, with a turndown collar, a pleated or piqué bib front, shirt studs and French cuffs. A wing collar is acceptable with black tie but belongs properly to white tie. Wear three or four onyx or mother-of-pearl studs with matching cufflinks, or choose a fly front that hides the buttons. Avoid colored shirts, ruffles and button-down collars.
- White only, with a turndown collar as the classic choice and a tall wing collar as an accepted alternative.
- Pleated and piqué bib fronts are traditional; a plain front relies on a correct jacket and bow tie.
- Studs, usually three or four, are traditional; a fly front that hides the buttons is the modern alternative.
- French cuffs, with cufflinks that match the studs.
- White tie needs a different shirt: stiff piqué front, detachable wing collar and single cuffs.
In this guide
- What shirt do you wear with a tuxedo?
- Wing collar or turndown collar: which is correct for black tie?
- Pleats, piqué or plain: which shirt front should you choose?
- Studs or buttons on a tuxedo shirt?
- What cuffs go on a tuxedo shirt?
- Black tie shirt vs white tie shirt
- How should a tuxedo shirt fit?
- What fabric is a tuxedo shirt made of?
- Common tuxedo shirt mistakes
- Should you buy, rent or have a tuxedo shirt made?
- Questions people ask
A tuxedo shirt, also called an evening shirt or dinner shirt, is the white shirt worn with a dinner jacket. It differs from a business shirt in four ways: its collar, its decorated front, the studs that close it and its French cuffs. Each has a correct form and a few accepted variations. Get them right and the outfit looks considered. Get one wrong and it is the first thing people notice, because the shirt front fills the space between the lapels all evening.
The black tie shirt at a glance
- Color
- White
- Collar
- Turndown (classic) or a tall wing collar (accepted)
- Front
- Pleated, piqué bib or plain
- Closure
- Studs, usually three or four, or a fly front
- Cuffs
- French (double) cuffs with matching cufflinks
- Studs and links
- Black onyx is classic; mother-of-pearl or plain metal also work
- Skip
- Colored or patterned shirts, ruffles, button-down collars, barrel cuffs
What shirt do you wear with a tuxedo?
Wear a white evening shirt with a turndown collar, a pleated or piqué bib, studs and French cuffs. That is the traditional black tie shirt, and it suits every invitation from a gala to a black tie wedding. The table shows each element, the accepted alternatives and what to avoid.
| Element | Classic | Also correct | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Color | White | No real alternative | Colored, black or patterned shirts |
| Collar | Turndown spread or semi-spread | A tall, stiff wing collar | Button-down collars; small, floppy wing collars |
| Front | Pleated or piqué bib | Plain front, or subtle tucks | Ruffles; a plain business shirt |
| Closure | Studs | Fly front (covered placket) | Visible plain buttons |
| Cuffs | French (double) cuffs | None for black tie | Barrel (button) cuffs |
| Fabric | Fine white cotton, such as poplin | Cotton piqué for the bib | Shiny polyester |
Wing collar or turndown collar: which is correct for black tie?
Both are worn, but the turndown collar is the classic black tie collar. When the dinner jacket first appeared as a less formal alternative to the tailcoat, it was worn with the tailcoat's shirt: stiffly starched, with a high, detachable wing collar. In the 1930s a softer evening shirt arrived, with a soft pleated front, French cuffs and an attached turndown collar, a style the Prince of Wales, later the Duke of Windsor, did much to popularize. After the Second World War the turndown became the black tie norm, and by the 1950s the wing collar was worn almost only with white tie.
American shirtmakers developed an attached, softer wing collar in the 1960s, and through the 1970s and 1980s it became the usual American tuxedo shirt, while British men largely kept the turndown. Today the turndown collar is the traditional choice and the wing collar an accepted alternative, as long as it is a good one.
The turndown collar
An evening turndown collar is usually a spread or semi-spread, cut tall enough to hide the band of the bow tie at the back and sides, and kept straight with collar stays. It frames a self-tie bow neatly and is more comfortable than any wing. Good evening shirts add a small loop at the back of the collar that holds the bow tie band in place, so the black band does not ride up and show above the collar.
The wing collar
A good wing collar is tall, covering the neck almost up to the jaw line, stiff enough to stand upright on its own, and has wings large enough not to vanish behind the bow. The wings sit behind the bow tie, never in front of it. Small, soft wing collars that fold over, common on rental shirts, are the version to avoid. With white tie the wing collar is a separate, starched collar fastened to the shirt with collar studs; see our guide to white tie.
Pleats, piqué or plain: which shirt front should you choose?
The bib, the panel down the front of the shirt, is what shows between the lapels of a dinner jacket. There are three traditional choices, and all are correct with black tie.
Pleated
Narrow vertical pleats
- The most common black tie front
- Soft and comfortable
- Works with turndown or wing collars
- Pleats should be crisp and evenly pressed
Piqué bib
Textured cotton panel
- Fine raised texture, also called marcella
- Often lightly stiffened so it lies flat
- Adds a touch of white tie formality
- Sits neatly under a low evening waistcoat
Plain front
No pleats or bib
- The most minimal option
- Tucks and fine pleating are subtle variations
- Often made with a fly front
- Relies on a correct jacket and bow tie to read as evening wear
Whichever you choose, the front should lie flat when you stand and sit. A stiffened bib that runs below the trouser waistband can bulge when you sit down, so check the length at a fitting or in the mirror with the trousers on. Ruffled fronts were popular at weddings in the 1960s and 1970s; today they read as costume.
Studs or buttons on a tuxedo shirt?
Studs are the traditional fastening. They take the place of the visible front buttons, usually three or four of them, and pass through buttonholes on both sides of the placket. Black onyx set in silver or gold is the classic choice for black tie; mother-of-pearl is traditional for white tie and also seen with black tie. Studs and cufflinks should match, ideally as a set.
The modern alternative is a fly front: a covered placket that hides ordinary buttons behind a strip of fabric. It is clean and simple and needs no jewelry. A shirt with plain visible buttons down the front is the least formal option and looks like a business shirt, so skip it for black tie.
How to put studs in a tuxedo shirt
- 1
Stud the shirt before you put it on
Lay the shirt flat, front up, on a table or bed. Fitting studs into a stiffened front while you wear it is awkward; on a flat surface it takes a minute.
- 2
Pass each stud through both holes
Each stud goes through the buttonhole on one side of the placket and the matching hole on the other. Work from the top stud down.
- 3
Fasten the back
Close each stud as its design requires: fold a hinged back flat, screw on a screw back, or slide the pin into a pin back.
Tip: Hinged backs are usually the quickest to fit.
- 4
Leave the collar button plain
The collar button is usually an ordinary button hidden by the bow tie, so it needs no stud.
- 5
Dress, then add links and bow tie
Put the shirt on, button the collar, fit the cufflinks and tie the bow tie. Our guide to tying a bow tie shows each step.
What cuffs go on a tuxedo shirt?
A black tie shirt has French cuffs, folded back and closed with cufflinks that match the studs. Barrel cuffs with buttons are the mark of a business shirt and look out of place at black tie. The exception is white tie, where the shirt has stiff single cuffs, also closed with links. Under the dinner jacket, about ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 13 mm) of cuff should show. Our guide to French cuffs and cufflinks explains how to fasten them.
Black tie shirt vs white tie shirt
A white tie shirt is a different garment, not a dressier version of the same one. It is built to sit flat under a low-cut white waistcoat and an evening tailcoat, so it is stiff where the black tie shirt is soft.
| Feature | Black tie shirt | White tie shirt |
|---|---|---|
| Collar | Attached turndown, or a wing collar | Detachable, starched wing collar |
| Front | Pleated, piqué bib or plain; soft or lightly stiffened | Stiff, starched piqué front |
| Closure | Usually three or four studs, or a fly front | One to three studs |
| Cuffs | French (double) cuffs | Stiff single cuffs closed with links |
| Studs and links | Onyx is classic; matching set | Mother-of-pearl or pearl; matching set |
How should a tuxedo shirt fit?
An evening shirt should fit at least as well as your best business shirt, because the front is on show all night. The collar should close with room for two fingers, so the bow tie sits snugly without pinching. The body should be trim enough not to balloon above a cummerbund or waistcoat, and the front should lie flat when you stand and sit. The sleeves should reach the base of your thumb, so the cuffs and links show below the jacket sleeve. For the general rules, see how a dress shirt should fit.
What fabric is a tuxedo shirt made of?
The body of a good tuxedo shirt is fine white cotton, usually poplin, with the pleats in the same fabric or the bib in cotton piqué. Fronts can be soft, with no starch, or lightly stiffened so they stay flat. Skip shiny polyester, which breathes poorly in a warm room. Our guide to shirt fabrics explains the weaves.
Common tuxedo shirt mistakes
- A colored, black or patterned shirt instead of white.
- A button-down collar, or a soft, undersized wing collar that disappears behind the bow.
- Barrel cuffs, which leave nowhere for cufflinks.
- Studs and cufflinks that do not match.
- A ruffled front outside a deliberately retro event.
- The bow tie band showing above the collar at the back.
- A shirt body that billows over the cummerbund.
Should you buy, rent or have a tuxedo shirt made?
Rented shirts are often the weakest part of a rented outfit, so even if you rent the dinner suit, consider buying the shirt. Because it is worn only a few times a year, a well-made ready-made evening shirt lasts for years. A made-to-measure or bespoke shirt lets you choose the collar height, the front and the cuffs exactly, and fit the body closely under a waistcoat. Our guide to renting, buying or commissioning a tuxedo covers the whole outfit.
What to ask for
- White, with a turndown spread collar tall enough to hide the bow tie band.
- A bow tie loop at the back of the collar.
- A pleated or piqué front that lies flat and does not run below the waistband.
- Stud holes, usually three or four, or a fly front.
- French cuffs.
- A trim body that sits flat under a cummerbund or waistcoat.
Then add matching studs and cufflinks, a black self-tie bow tie and a well-fitted dinner jacket. Our black tie guide covers every other piece of the outfit.
Questions people ask
Can you wear a wing collar with a tuxedo?
Yes, a wing collar is an accepted alternative with a tuxedo, though the turndown collar is the classic black tie choice. Choose a tall, stiff wing collar with wings large enough to show, and wear the wings behind the bow tie. Small, soft wing collars of the kind found on many rental shirts look weak.
How many studs does a tuxedo shirt have?
A tuxedo shirt usually takes three or four studs, depending on the length of the placket and how low the trousers sit. The collar button is a plain button hidden by the bow tie. A fly-front tuxedo shirt hides its buttons and needs no studs.
Can you wear a regular white shirt with a tuxedo?
A regular white business shirt can work in a pinch if it has a turndown collar and French cuffs, but it looks plainer than a proper evening shirt. A tuxedo shirt has a pleated or piqué front and stud holes that fill the space between the lapels. If you wear black tie more than once a year, buy a proper evening shirt.
What is a piqué bib on a dress shirt?
A piqué bib is a panel on the front of an evening shirt made from cotton piqué, a fabric with a fine raised texture also called marcella. It is often lightly stiffened so it stays flat. On a tuxedo shirt it adds a touch of formality; on a white tie shirt a stiff piqué front is required.
Should tuxedo shirt studs match the cufflinks?
Yes. With black tie, shirt studs and cufflinks should match, ideally as a set. Black onyx in silver or gold is the classic choice, with mother-of-pearl or plain metal also correct. Matching them makes the shirt front and cuffs look like one decision.
What is the difference between a tuxedo shirt and a dress shirt?
A tuxedo shirt is a white evening shirt made for black tie, with a pleated or piqué front, stud holes, French cuffs and a turndown or wing collar. A regular dress shirt has a plain front with buttons and barrel or French cuffs. The tuxedo shirt is designed to show between the lapels of a dinner jacket.
Is a pleated or plain front tuxedo shirt better?
A pleated front is the more traditional and more common choice, and it adds texture between the lapels. A plain front is correct but more minimal, and it relies on the jacket and bow tie to look like evening wear. A piqué bib is a third option that looks slightly more formal than both.
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