How to Wear a Suit Without a Tie

A suit without a tie is now normal in many offices, at dinners and at relaxed weddings. Done badly, it looks as if you took the tie off in the car: a limp collar sinking under the lapels, an undershirt showing at the neck, a formal suit that seems to be waiting for something. Done well, it looks easy and deliberate. The difference comes down to the shirt collar, the suit, what you wear under the jacket and knowing when a tie is still expected.

Is it OK to wear a suit without a tie?

Yes, it is OK to wear a suit without a tie in business casual offices, at most social events and at relaxed daytime weddings. The tie has been fading from daily office wear for years. Japan's government, for example, has encouraged office workers to drop the jacket and tie in summer since its Cool Biz campaign began in 2005. A tie is still expected at the most formal and serious occasions, so the question is less whether you can go without one and more where.

Which shirt collars work without a tie?

The best shirt collars to wear without a tie are ones that stand up on their own: a button-down, or a point or semi-spread collar with collar stays and a firm interlining. Without a knot to hold it, a soft collar falls flat and slides under the jacket lapels, which is the single most common reason a tieless suit looks unfinished. The collar should frame the neck and sit neatly inside the lapels.

Collar height matters too. A taller collar band, the strip that wraps around the neck, lifts the collar so it stands higher under the lapels. Some shirtmakers offer collars with a taller band and two buttons, designed to be worn open. A hidden button-down, with small buttons under the collar points, gives the hold of a button-down with the look of a spread collar. Our guides to shirt collar types and shirt collar construction go into more detail.

How many shirt buttons should you undo?

Undo only the top button of your shirt when you wear a suit without a tie. At a relaxed social event, such as a summer party or dinner, two buttons can work. More than two looks careless with a suit, whatever the occasion.

• Hide the undershirt. If you wear one, choose a V-neck in a color close to your skin tone, or skip it. A white crew neck showing at an open collar is the most common mistake.
• Keep the collar inside the lapels. The points should sit neatly under the jacket collar. Wearing a camp collar over the lapels is a separate, deliberate summer look.
• Press the shirt. An open collar draws attention to the neck and placket, so wrinkles show more.
• Check symmetry. Both collar points should sit at the same height and angle; adjust them when you put the jacket on.

Which suits look best without a tie?

Suits with some texture and a softer construction look best without a tie. Flannel, hopsack, linen, cotton and textured wools read as relaxed, so an open collar looks natural with them. Navy, mid gray, brown, olive and lighter colors also suit a tieless look better than the most formal colors. A sharp charcoal pinstripe or black worsted with an open collar can look as if the tie is missing, because those suits were made for one.

A dark, plain suit can still work without a tie in the evening, especially with a tonal shirt, such as navy on navy, and dark suede loafers. A slightly slimmer notch lapel and a soft shoulder also make a suit feel more relaxed than a wide peak lapel with heavy padding.

Knitwear under a suit: rollnecks and crew necks

A fine-gauge rollneck (turtleneck) under a suit is sharper than an open-collar shirt and works in all but the most formal settings. Choose fine merino over cashmere for this job: merino is harder wearing and less prone to pilling under a jacket. The knit should sit smoothly over the shoulders so the jacket lies flat, and you should not wear a T-shirt under it, because the neck seam shows through. Good pairings include light gray with a charcoal suit, navy with navy or gray, camel with brown and black with almost anything.

A fine crew neck sweater works the same way, worn alone or over a collared shirt with the collar outside. Keep the knit thin, so the jacket still closes without pulling. Chunky cable knits belong under a tweed jacket, not a suit.

Can you wear a polo shirt with a suit?

Yes, you can wear a knitted polo with a suit, and it is one of the best warm-weather alternatives to a shirt. Choose a fine-knit polo with a collar firm enough to sit up under the lapels; long sleeves look smarter and suit cooler months, short sleeves suit summer. Tuck it in and do not add a tie. A dark polo with a dark suit looks sleek; a lighter or brighter polo suits a summer suit in linen or cotton. Avoid sporty piqué polos with soft, floppy collars and logos.

Pocket square, shoes and accessories

Without a tie, the outfit loses its main note of color, and a pocket square is the easiest way to put some back. A colored or patterned square in a loose puff fold suits a tieless look; a crisp white square folded flat is fine but reads more formal. See how to fold a pocket square for the folds.

Shoes should come down a step in formality too. Black cap-toe oxfords can look stiff with an open collar; brown derbies, monk straps and suede or leather loafers look more natural. With a casual cotton or linen suit, clean minimal sneakers work as well; see sneakers with a suit. Match your belt to your shoes and keep the watch simple.

When should you still wear a tie with a suit?

• Job interviews in conservative fields such as law, finance and government; see our interview suit guide.
• Funerals, memorials and religious ceremonies.
• Court appearances, where a tie is the safest choice for anyone with a role in the case.
• Formal weddings, and any invitation that mentions a tie, a dark suit or black tie.
• Formal business meetings where your hosts or clients will wear ties.

How to wear a suit without a tie in hot weather

Heat is the most common reason to drop the tie. Choose an open-weave suit fabric such as linen, a linen blend or a high-twist wool, and pair it with a light poplin or linen shirt, or a fine cotton knitted polo. A half-lined or unlined jacket helps. Our guides to wearing a suit in hot weather and linen suits cover fabrics in detail.

The tailor's view: a shirt made to be worn open

If you often go without a tie, ask your shirtmaker for a collar designed for it: a slightly taller band, a firmer interlining and points short enough to stay put. A made-to-measure or bespoke shirt can also be cut so the collar sits close to the neck, which matters more when there is no knot to fill the gap.

The jacket matters as well. Without a tie, the area around the neck is on show, so a jacket collar that stands away from the shirt is more visible. A good tailor can fix a gaping jacket collar; see how a suit jacket should fit. Get the collar, the jacket and the shoes right, and nobody will wonder where your tie went.

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