Mohair Suits: What Mohair Does and When to Wear It

Mohair has a reputation that runs from the sharp suits of 1960s London to the dinner jackets of hot-climate evenings. The reason is the fiber itself. Mohair is springy, smooth and naturally lustrous, so a fabric with mohair in it feels crisp and dry, sheds creases and catches the light as you move. It also feels firmer than fine wool and has a sheen not everyone wants. Once you know how much mohair is in a fabric, and why, you know most of what matters about how a mohair suit will look and wear.

What is mohair?

Mohair is the hair of the Angora goat. It is not angora, which comes from the Angora rabbit. The goat takes its name from Ankara, in Turkey, which was the only source of Angora goats until the mid-19th century. Today South Africa is the largest producer, with more than half of the world's supply, followed by Lesotho. The United States, mainly Texas, also produces mohair. Angora goats are usually shorn twice a year.

Mohair is graded by the age of the goat, because the fiber thickens as the animal grows. Kid mohair, from young goats, is the finest and goes into fine suiting. Adult mohair is coarser and goes into coats, rugs and furnishings.

Why does mohair shine and resist creases?

Two properties make mohair useful. First, its surface scales are thin and lie close and flat, so the fiber reflects light. That gives mohair fabrics their luster, which shows as a two-tone shimmer when the fabric moves and folds. Second, the fiber is strong and naturally elastic. Bend it and it springs back, which is why a wool and mohair suit sheds creases so well and holds a sharp, defined shape.

Mohair is also coarser than suiting wool. Even kid mohair measures roughly 23 to 29 microns across, while the wool in a Super 120s fabric is 17.75 microns or finer. That extra thickness makes mohair feel crisp, dry and slightly wiry, and it is why mills blend it with fine wool: the wool brings softness and drape, and the mohair brings spring and sheen.

How much mohair is in a mohair suit?

Very few suits are pure mohair. Almost all mohair suit fabrics are wool and mohair blends, and the share of mohair varies widely. Many modern summer suitings, especially from European mills, add a small amount, often about 5 to 15 percent, mainly for performance: better crease recovery and a drier feel. Traditional British mohairs use far more, around half or more, and those are the fabrics with the distinctive sheen and crisp, slightly rustling feel. For many years, a blend of 87 percent wool and 13 percent mohair was something of an industry standard.

The label tells you which you are buying. Under US labeling rules, every fiber's percentage must be shown, and mohair may be named as mohair, for example 50% mohair, 50% wool. A Super number on a wool and mohair fabric describes the wool only; see Super numbers explained.

How does a mohair suit feel to wear?

A wool and mohair suit feels cool, dry and slightly firm. The fabric stands a little away from the skin rather than clinging, which helps in humid weather, and it keeps a sharp line at the shoulders, chest and trouser crease. High-mohair fabrics can feel a little scratchy at first, especially at bare wrists and the back of the neck, and they soften with wear. If you are sensitive, choose a lower mohair share or ask for the trousers to be lined to the knee.

When should you wear a mohair suit?

Mohair has three natural homes: hot, humid weather, travel and the evening.

Hot and humid weather

Mohair blends are among the best fabrics for humid heat. They stay crisp when linen would crumple, and the dry, springy fiber does not cling when you sweat. A light wool and mohair of around 8 oz (250 g), in a half-lined jacket, is a strong choice for summer business in humid cities. Our guide to the best suit fabric for hot weather compares it with high-twist wool and linen.

Travel

Because it springs back from creases, mohair travels well. A wool and mohair suit can come out of a suitcase, hang overnight in a hotel bathroom and look ready by morning. Fold it with care all the same; see how to pack a suit.

Evening wear

Mohair's sheen looks deliberate at night. Wool and mohair is a traditional fabric for dinner suits, especially in warm weather, where it stays crisp through a long evening and looks rich under artificial light. Black and midnight blue are the classic colors. Some prefer a matte barathea for black tie, so if you want a quieter look, choose a lower mohair share. Our guide to black tie covers the rest of the outfit.

Is a mohair suit too shiny for the office?

It depends on the blend and the color. A low-mohair fabric in navy or mid-gray looks like a crisp worsted with a faint glow, and it is at home in any office. A high-mohair fabric in a bright or very dark color shows a clear two-tone sheen, which reads as evening or fashion wear in daylight. If you want one mohair suit for both work and occasions, look for roughly 10 to 30 percent mohair in navy or charcoal, in a plain weave or a quiet pattern.

What colors work best in mohair?

Mohair takes dye readily, so colors look rich and saturated. Navy, charcoal and black are the most useful. Midnight blue is the classic evening color, and mid-blue, tan and olive work for summer daytime suits. Mohair also has a strong link to the mod suits of the late 1950s and 1960s. Tonik, a wool and mohair fabric from the Paris-based house Dormeuil, was so closely tied to that look that tonic suit became a name for any suit with a sheen. Many of those suits had a shot, color-changing finish that seems to shift shade as you move. They are still made today, and they are a style statement rather than office wear.

How should a mohair suit be made?

• Half-lined for summer. A summer mohair stays cooler with a light lining or a half lining in cupro; see suit linings explained.
• A crisp cut. Mohair holds a clean line, so it works well with a defined shoulder, a shaped waist and sharp lapels.
• Canvas rather than fusing. A canvassed front lets the jacket hold its shape and breathe; see fused vs canvas.
• An experienced tailor. Ask how often the tailor cuts mohair. Crisp, springy fabrics take practice to shape and press well.

How do you care for a mohair suit?

For habits that suit every wool suit, see how to care for a suit and how often to dry clean a suit.

How to choose a mohair fabric

Choose mohair for what it does best: crispness in humid heat, composure after a flight and a quiet glow at night. For the wider fabric picture, see suit fabrics explained, and when you are ready to commission, browse our tailor rankings.

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